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Have you tried a sample board yet to see how the combo works. You will find the silver to be heavy and want to drop out quicker than the other colors. Keep it stirred. I suggest adding just a little silver and not load it heavy.

As far a gassing.... Do your poor mans vapor test, 2x2 plastic taped down. Leave it for a minimum 24 hours. Pull up and check for darkness of the concrete. If ANY signs, do a real test to see how much moisture is coming through. (You need to have a area that is clean to do this on).

Do all of your prep dry. Diamond grind, denatured alcohol for final "mop" to pick up fine dust. Turn off all air movement at time of placement. Make sure the humidity levels are not high, (dehumidifier) It is also a good idea to have the air temp decending when you start.

Crystal: It has a long work time. I'm telling guys 1 hour. You actually have 1.5 hours and it will still self level. Now that is from the time you mix the 2 together. If you poke around and leave it in the mix bucket too long, that window shortens pretty fast.

I personaly like applying a color base coat first and stretch it thin, then my "money coat" within 24 hours. If I have a lot of trash in my base coat, I will do a light sand to level out. Denatured wipe with micro fiber pad and start applying.

Talk to your distributor on application methods. It's like any epoxy, I have my own preferences. I will tell you for best finish, figure at least 80 sq. ft. per gallon. I will also strongly suggest you play with it first before applying it on a paying job.

Bubbles, have spiked shoes. Depending on when they appear, small area, heat gun. Large area, magic trowel, spike roller, or...... (I haven't tried it yet on the Crystal yet but it works on the UV1), a very light spray of Hydra Stone Reducer. All of this within the 1 hour window. If you approach the 1.5 hour window, be careful as it wont self level well after that.

Here's my suggestion on your color combo: I would apply a PT4 color base coat of either medium or light gray at 200 sq. ft. per gallon. Let dry then mix the charcoal mixed at no more than 1/3 jar per gallon. Put this down at around 90 sq. ft. per gallon. Watch your clock and get back on the slab and apply your accents of gun metal at 1/4 jar per gallon with maybe a table spoon per gallon of the silver mixed in. Keep it stirred as you pour it out willy nilly on the floor. Take your magic trowel and blend it. MAKE A SAMPLE BOARD..........

NOTE: It seems the Marshaltown magic trowel (the one with the screw on handle and replaceable blade) falls apart in the Crystal. I think the glue they use to mount the rubber comes "unglued". Seems the Midwest Rake brand of the magic trowel holds up better. In any event, have several on hand if you use this method of application. This info just came in from one of my contractors on a project he did this last weekend.

Another tid-bit: MAKE SURE you have no open silicone type products in the same building you are working in. It will fish eye the crap out of the epoxy if there is ANY airborne.

Ask your distributor and compare my notes with his. Take his advise over mine.   gene  ec-Indy 

You can use RE in your first coat but the PT4 colored epoxy would be a better idea. You would have to load the epoxy at least 1, maybe 1.5 cans per gallon to get an opaque coloring applied that thin. I like doing it this way because it locks down the surface and it you have any problems it's on the thin (less expensive) coat. If you attempt to do it in one coat and it goes belly up, you have set yourself up to spend a lot more money. Yes, you could put a thin clear coat on top after sanding and prepping the offending coat, but any bubbles that show all the way to the concrete will have to be attended to first to match the base coloring or you will have to load the "repair coat" with RE again.

Apply RE base color in your "money" coat then go right back on it with your accent colors pouring them in a random fashion. Take your magic trowel and "blend" them in right away. (You have an hour to do so from starting your mix). You can take this several more steps but I don't want to get you into trouble on this one.

I suggest at max of 24 hours to recoat PT4 before having to sand it. Now you could use the Crystal on your first coat and use 844 solvent based tint from Sherwin Williams or even the Hydra Stone dyes. No more than 5% by volume...... (you'll need a lot less than that to get an opaque look). You can add a little charcoal reflector to this to "pop" it a little.

I'm getting too carried away with this and haven't even touched on what can be done with this stuff. KISS

Keep it simple on your first couple applications. Get comfortable with your timing and proper mixing. Know what to do when things are not going right to correct any problems. Sample boards?   gene  ec-indy

Good tip glams. If you have a lot of walls to cut into you might even consider 1.5 gallon mixes.   gene