Rep said maybe applied too thin. Any feedback helpful. Any suggestions on fix?????
Floor was nutralize,washed , rinsed,wash , rinsed,,,,mopped, mopped,,,,mopped.
Floor sat three days before we applied sealer.
Help....
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weldman |
BUbbles in uv-1 |
Lead | ||
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Any suggestion??? Applied e100 uv1 epoxy over chemstone on basement floor. Tons of bubble over entire floor.
Rep said maybe applied too thin. Any feedback helpful. Any suggestions on fix????? Floor was nutralize,washed , rinsed,wash , rinsed,,,,mopped, mopped,,,,mopped. Floor sat three days before we applied sealer. Help.... |
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ECOV LLC |
#1 | |||
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Did you do any moisture testing on the floor before you started? You may have moisture vapor issues on this one. You can screen it off and recoat it which will help to cover and not see the bubbles but if there is moisture vapor the epoxy will blister. Tough spot.
Dave
Elite Crete of the Ohio Valley www.elitecreteohiovalley.com dave.sharamitaro@elitecrete.com I'm not a doctor. . . . . I just play one on concrete. |
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EliteCreteMN |
#2 | |||
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Couple questions...
More details the better. How was the epoxy mixed? How long? Mixer user? How was it applied? Rate? Tools used? Tempature in room? Temp of substrate?
Elite Crete of Minnesota
Dan Ryan 10740 Lyndale Ave Bloomington, MN 55420 952.884.5118 [o] 952.884.0449 [f] dan.ryan@elitecrete.com **dan.ryan44 on Skype |
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briandeas |
#3 | |||
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I've been successful with sanding 220, or screening then coating with 3-4 coats of high solids floor finish. You have to make sure to sand your 220 marks if they are deep or the wax won't cut it. Worked for me. I got your message earlier but easier for me to just reply on here. Good luck
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weldman |
#4 | |||
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I didnt do a moisture test.. probly half the problem.....the basement was 65 -70 degrees.We mixed for 2- minutes then squeeged and back rolled.
I did apply rather quick when squeege product. Was 450 sq feet. The product did turn white after rolling in many spots. Does this tell us anything?? I dont / didnt know the temp of floor. I did sand down a small area and reapplied small area, got same results,,,,,bubbles. Not as many though???? Tough spot i know. When you guys say screen what do you mean. Rent maching/ floor buffer with certain pads?? Really appreciate the input. Do you guys think applying too thin would do this??? |
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BS |
#5 | |||
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450 sq/ft per gallon? Max recommendation for application is 300 sq/ft gallon, and we rarely ever apply less than 200 and that's for a base coat & full coverage flake. Yes floor buffer with sanding screen. Sounds like it could be moisture. What knap roller did you backroll with? How vigorously did you backroll? Did you pull real thin on re application and did you backroll? Rolling that thin of an application can create bubbles depending on what knap roller was used. UV/PT1 will cloud up a little during backrolling, but has never caused us any concern or bad outcomes. It clears up as it cures and settles out.
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DCS Inc |
#6 | |||
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The white was air bubbles in the mix. Either introduced at time of mixing or rolling it too long with a too large of a nap roller. Way too thin of an application also. gene
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BS |
#7 | |||
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The white will disappear if the application isn't so thin. Happens on almost every job we do, but we haven't had a problem yet. Don't use anything longer than a 3/8" knap roller. We like 3/8" for most epoxy type applications.
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weldman |
#8 | |||
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we mixed 2-gallons total for 425 sq feet. Used 3/8 nap roller we got from rep. I thought we were applying pretty thick but.....maybe not huh.
we back rolled gently.so......?? on reapplication i put on thick and did backroll and still bubbles??? Even mixed very ,very slow for 1-minute I am testing moisture in concret now to see if moisture is prob.. The humidity is high.....65-70% will this effect the product?? Even if moisture in floor wouldnt first coat create barrier?? Gonna plan on dehumidifier in basement,sand floor/bubbles and reapply. On re-ap still put on thick?? Thanks so much everyone for the input verry much appreciated.. any other suggestion welcome...what a nightmare.. . |
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weldman |
#9 | |||
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Hey FYI... did moisture test. two locations in basement......both ..negative .
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DCS Inc |
#10 | |||
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Did you grind down to clean concrete? Thats the only way it gonna tell ya anything. gene ec-Indy
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weldman |
#11 | |||
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i had an area we acid etched for overlay. Think that was o.k??? or not good indicator.
wanted to apply top coat but not sure because dont want same results. |
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canu4see |
#12 | |||
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Are you sure it's bubbles and not trash of some kind, like a hair, dust, grain of sand, a leg from a bug that stuck in it, ect. After sanding or screening, vac and wipe w/ alcohol very well or the top coat will be full of trash. We also turn heating/cooling off so no dust circulates, and try to keep people from walking around upstairs for a few hours after application to keep dust from falling from ceiling.
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weldman |
#13 | |||
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didnt wipe with alcohol ...mopped,mopped,,mopped,,,...hand wipped last then let dry 24.....same results...bubbles ...bubble bubbles..
seemed like bubbles came after backroll....backroll 3/8 nap...slow...and kept wet edge.....seems where i pit on thick=less bubbles??? question....when applying....will squeege edges blend in pretty much without back rolling??? cause im thinking product was not warm enough. basement was 70 degrees....gonna try thin application this summer when heat wave comes in??? kind of discouraged about epoxy......got another job but afraid to seal with epoxy...and customer likes look of epoxy.........punt huh. |
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weldman |
#14 | |||
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hey.... spoke with rep face to face on this one....he said probly from not defuzzing roller...i was calling them bubbles but i got educated when he showed me some bubbles on some sample boards. I would call my problem small pimples..... ( bubbles). Anyone ever get this on first epoxy job..
Gonna do another epox job soon. Will c ... |
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CustomConcreteFloors |
say bye bye to bubbles | #15 | ||
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I used to get bubbles in every epoxy floor I did. I learned a trick that got rid of them forever. I do about 20 to 25 epoxy floors a year. High end clients.
2 COATS Coat one: - Mix no more than 1 liter at a time - Mix with stir stick - Never mix epoxy with a drill - Cut back with a splash of xylene or ISA99% (Isapropyl alcohol) (dont worry just splash it in. 5% of volume of sealer if you want to measure) - Dump out on floor. - Trowel the epoxy down with a drywall blade (blue steel blade) http://images.orgill.com/200x200/4813341.jpg - Go slowly, make sure if the floor is sucking the epoxy up that you back trowel until there are no dry spots. You are TIGHTLY troweling. You are going for a coverage rate of aprox 500 to 800 sq ft per gallon. - (I know a lot of you are going to hear from your suppliers that this is the wrong way to do it or that's too thin or never reduce epoxy etc... Believe what you want this works amazing for me and it's not too thin because you are coating with squeegee and back rolling the next day. Make sure you get back on it as soon as possible before your 24 hours is up. I blade coat in afternoon and go back next morning to be sure.) IMPORTANT: The only way you can screw this up is by not troweling it flat and leaving ridges (can always be sanded out if happens.) or by leaving dry spots. Notes: You'll usually find that at the end of each troweling batch you have a pile of garbage that you've brought along with you, this would have been left in your floor if you had been doing one thick coat. The reason this works so well is because your first coat is thin enoough to pop when air/vapor is going through it from the slab so no bubbles. Once it cures the slab is no longer breathing so you can then roll out your nice thick finish coat for a glass smooth floor. 220 Screening and waxing when done is the ultimate finish. I tend to have about 20 to 25 minutes of open time with each small batch I make. Don't worry about your trowel pattern showing through the next day after top coat. (for clear coats). It won't as long as you evenly wet out the floor on your blade coat. Hope this helps! JM |
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weldman |
#16 | |||
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thanks for the info....will try your method...i did a job recently with pt-1.... took for ever to set. Seems im getting different results everytime i use epoxy. |
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DCS Inc |
#17 | |||
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If sun hits it..... it will yellow. Even UV resistant epoxy will yellow if the sun beats the hell out of it. gene ec-Indy
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CaliCat |
#18 | |||
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the 100PT doesnt get bubbles like the 100UV did. Hit it with a heat gun and they will all go away.
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