Can we put reflector pt1 on ply c-tops? in "OTHER STUFF" CONCRETE FORUM Forum

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Can we put reflector pt1 on ply c-tops?

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briandeas	Can we put reflector pt1 on ply c-tops?		Lead	[-]
Posts: 32 10/07/09 08:09 PM	Tags : None Customer wants 2" ply tops coated w/ reflector. They saw the samples and want instead of granite. Is there anything special I need to know? I know we don't encourage this type of install but any tips and info appreciated. Thx
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ECOV LLC		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 205 10/07/09 09:20 PM	Brian, Layer MDF board, glued with Titebond glue and screwed every 8 to 12 inches. Coat with CPR1000 cut 1:1 with water and allow to dry followed by ThinFinish base coat. When dry, sand with a stone and coat with 50/50 ThinFinish/Micro and allow to cure. You may consider adding some charcoal PCC to the top coat or spray with a dark color of HYDRA-Stone Dye to help pop the REFLECTOR, most colors look better on a dark background. I coat the bottoms as well when possible which provides a waterproof durable top. A quick sand with a random orbit sander and 120 grit and you are ready for PT-1 with REFLECTOR. Dave Elite Crete of the Ohio Valley www.elitecreteohiovalley.com dave.sharamitaro@elitecrete.com I'm not a doctor. . . . . I just play one on concrete.
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briandeas		#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 33 10/07/09 09:47 PM	Thanks Dave! Any particular place I can get cpr1000? So let's get this straight. Glue n screw down the mdf cpr1000 1:1h2o thin 50/50 pcc charcoal pt1 rfr
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brzelt		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 8 10/07/09 09:52 PM	Your distributor has it Brian. It is on the price sheet.
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BS		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 303 10/08/09 07:04 AM	I'd do a sample of mdf with a base coat of epoxy, then pt1 with reflector. I've sanded formica with 80 grit, and gone right over the top of it, and it's being abused by my kids with absolutely no signs of giving in. Just another option to overlaying the whole top if you're just going to do a reflector. Bruce too
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ECOV LLC		#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 207 10/08/09 07:22 AM	Brian and Bruces, CPR1000 is Elite Crete's hybrid polymer that is used in all of the bag mixes and is supplied as a concentrated liquid by your distributor. As BS suggested you could build your MDF substrates and go directly over them with a base coat of PT-4 solid color epoxy and then coat within 24 hours with PT-1 or UV-1 clear epoxy with REFLECTOR(S). If your second coat is applied after the base coat has dried to the touch (10 to 12 hours depending on conditions) but within 24 hours the coats will bond and become as one. After 24 hours the base coat needs to be scuffed or sanded to create a profile for a mechanical bond. Post up some pics of what you do. Dave Elite Crete of the Ohio Valley www.elitecreteohiovalley.com dave.sharamitaro@elitecrete.com I'm not a doctor. . . . . I just play one on concrete.
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brzelt		#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 9 10/08/09 07:42 AM	This is something that I would like to try as well. Just not familiar enough with pt1 and pt 4. Need to get some material and practice.
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BS		#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 304 10/08/09 09:06 AM	Forgot to mention in last post. Might want to cover underside of top with a light coat of pt also, just to keep moisture penetration out. Depending on the location of where the top is going to placed, might not be necessary. Nice thing is, that if you get your base coat on and don't hit the window for the rfr coat, sanding a top is easy. Brzelt, I highly suggest playing around with the epoxies. They make for great finish coats on interior textures, they're great with rfr, endless possibilities once you're comfortable with them. Bruce too
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briandeas		#8	[url]	[-]
Posts: 35 10/08/09 03:30 PM	I have to say the method of applying pt4 first, then the rfr is way more attractive. This will be 85 sqft over kitchen tops... and then a handful in the bathroom. I will take pics and post IF I get it. Ive played with the RFR a bunch so im feeling pretty comfortable.....MDF is kinda of slick. It makes sense to give it a light sand before the pt4. Am I right?? One more question. Im doing gunmetal pt1 over 60sq ft tops in a restaurant in Mid Nov. He had the tops cast in place by a local guy and they are ready for the epoxy. I was going to just wipe clean with denatured Alcohol, mix rfr/pt1 and pour. Im sure this is fine but just wanted to run it by you guys first. Thanks!
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BS		#9	[url]	[-]
Posts: 308 10/09/09 06:16 AM	Brian, Light sand on the mdf couldn't hurt. The base coat is just to put a color down under the rfr and to seal off the mdf, so it can go on thin. After you put your pt1 w rfr, you'll have to sit and wait till it starts to set a bit before you can finish off the edge faces nicely. Not that hard, just have to read the epoxy and know when it's ready. Cast in place concrete tops, should be ok with what you are proposing, depending on how hard troweled they are. If hard trowel finish, you may need to abraid them or acid. Can't answer that without seeing them. Sounds like your on track . Def. post pics. Bruce too
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briandeas		#10	[url]	[-]
Posts: 37 10/09/09 08:47 AM	Thanks Bruce- The cast in place tops are not slicked out at all. Looks like they just screeted and hit with steel. I'm going to brick, vac, clean and pour. I'm pretty sure I'm going to apply a topcoat pt1.
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BS		#11	[url]	[-]
Posts: 309 10/09/09 01:11 PM	Sounds good.. Looking forward to pics... Bruce
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lad		#12	[url]	[-]
Posts: 22 10/11/09 07:04 AM	Why not just MDO and not worry so much about undersealing?
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DCS Inc		#13	[url]	[-]
Posts: 2383 10/11/09 06:04 PM	Dan, I've thought about mdo and was worried about the paper coating..... and price seems to be up there a bit. My research on it made me just more confused because I guess there's different qualities of mdo..... as I'm finding there's different grades of mdf..... sheesh. The mdf board soaks the CPR 1000 really well and provides a good water proof surface. Any coating going over it be it epoxy or Thin Finish will bond quite well. When cutting the mdo you still need to deal with those edges. I'm still going to give it a try to see how well epoxy binds with the surface. Do some of the "other" counter top overlay companies use mdo? gene ec-Indy
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lad		#14	[url]	[-]
Posts: 23 10/29/09 06:29 AM	Well...other companies I've used don't specifically go into that. The suggestion was my own because I know mdf can/will absorb moisture. For high moisture/humidity areas or if the client is touchy about this I'll spec the mdo. Never a problem yet, and some of these apps are exterior. You're right though about the different grades. Plus, there's availability to think about too. In my area Lowes and HD don't even stock mdo anymore. -Dan
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brofun		#15	[url]	[-]
Posts: 221 02/03/10 03:26 PM	hate to sound ignorant..but what is mdo?...medium density oranges?...
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NBehnen		#16	[url]	[-]
Posts: 24 02/03/10 04:12 PM www.gatewayelitecrete.com	Medium density overlay board is a piece of plywood coated with layers of resin paper. Never seen the stuff, I just have a friend that works with it all the time. Nick Behnen Gateway Elite Crete Email: nick.behnen@elitecrete.com
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ECOV LLC		#17	[url]	[-]
Posts: 297 02/06/10 08:02 PM	Medically deaf ostriches. Mother doesn't object. OK really, medium density overlay, otherwise known as ply-form. It's the plastic coated plywood that multiple use concrete forms are made of. If you have ever had your knuckles or foot smashed by a symons form you have seen the shiny plywood finish, that's MDO. It usually isn't a big box hardware store item, more likely found at a concrete supply house. Dave Elite Crete of the Ohio Valley www.elitecreteohiovalley.com dave.sharamitaro@elitecrete.com I'm not a doctor. . . . . I just play one on concrete.
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dljbelle		#18	[url]	[-]
Posts: 5 02/11/10 08:03 PM	mdo is medium density overlay board often used in the sign business because it doesn't absorb moisture like mdf board does
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lad		#19	[url]	[-]
Posts: 24 02/19/10 07:39 AM	.
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mgray		#20	[url]	[-]
Posts: 9 03/16/10 03:40 PM	You can also use MDX which is a waterproof MDF mostly used for exterior MDF applications. IE: Outdoor Kitchens
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