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xfrk |
Cave bar |
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I'm working on a house where the owners want a bar with cave-like walls and ceiling. I have a contractor who can do the shaping and finishing of the
surfaces, but he is a waterfeature builder who usually works in rebar and concrete. This will be too heavy for this room since it is on the main floor with a
basement below. The floor is 3/4" advantech on 18" deep truss/joists, 16" o.c. Tentatively, I thought we could panel the walls and ceiling
with 1/2" plywood, add shaped blocks of wood for rough contours, cover it with expanded metal lath, and coat with a plaster or cementitious mixture to
shape the rock. Any suggestions or advice?
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stampit |
material | #1 | ||
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you can use lathe and foam to keep the weight down. Then put plaster on or flex-c-ment. It is light weight concrete and you won't have any issues. |
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brofun |
#2 | |||
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I agree with stampit..flexcment is good..also, I've heard good things about erectcment..both are lightweight and easy to work with. Lath is nice..but, you
might want to buy the kind that has a paper backing if you are working overhead..it allows the mud to push thru the lath and then close up on the other side,
holding it in place. Do this and weight is not a problem in any way.
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xfrk |
#3 | |||
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Thanks for the replies. A paper-backed lath is something I've never seen. Any advice on availability? How does one attach the lath to a thick piece of
foam, or is it even necessary? What type of foam is suitable and does the cement mixture stick to it? Also, who is the maker of the cement products you refer
to. Sorry about all the questions, but I'm not a concrete worker, just the project manager, a carpenter and woodworker. Thanks again.
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stampit |
#4 | |||
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you don't need to use lathe on foam. I like to use pink board or green board and not beaded foam. The beaded foam sucks up the primer to fast
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Bomaniteguy |
#5 | |||
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We tired some vert overlays and couldnt understand the appeal. Just were harder than alternative products and thought it wasnt a market worth expanding into.
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brofun |
#6 | |||
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bomaniteguy..I like it because of the freedom of expression. You can do just about anything with vertical. I'm not busy..and it doesn't reresent a
large portion of my work yet..but, it has it's place. Floors are where the money is tho..and I will use my floor money to push my vertical. I'm bidding
the floor of a restaurant right now..and told him I will do his bar for cost plus. I'm designing it and doing the work. Will post pics if I get the job as
I'm going.
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EliteCreteMN |
#7 | |||
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"Light-weight vertical concrete is CRAP!
Sorry I believe in being direct. I have done MANY MANY Flexcment, Tommy Rock, Unbelieveable-crete, willpayoffyourhouse-c-ment, actuallyinstallsitself-crete projects. You have to buy too much glue...er uh primer and then play chemist with the cement. The mix sets up fast in the bucket/wheel barrel, so they tell you to add more water. This causes shrink cracks [come look at the front of my house!] that you have to fix once the wall is dry. And explain to the customer, "no that is normal and it's not going to fall." If that wasn't bad enough, the vinyl glue...er uh primer that you mix in rejects the coloring. Unless you want to use their coloring process [colored hardner in waterborne sealer painted on the surface.] Which by the way, WASHES OFF! YOU WON'T MAKE A LIVING FROM VERTICAL OR COUNTERTOPS. If you hang your hat on a "cool" vertical and it goes bad, you are done. I have sculpted foam and splatter textured with TF and then added TP and stamped. As for the ceiling. Sherwim Williams all the way. Just my $1.85 Good Luck |
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ecHouston |
#8 | |||
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Tell us what you really think Dan.
Elite Crete Systems of Houston |
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deri1978 |
#9 | |||
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I just use sand/cement/lime mix with integral colour or stain later. backed on to diamond lathe if wood is involved. No need to waste money on no pre-bagged
stuff if you know how to use a hawk and trowel prperly
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