| Author | Comment | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
DRRCE |
Countertop Cracks |
Lead | ||
|
I have been getting a good deal of business with making countertops. I have experienced about 50% of them cracking though at some point. I usually use 2 3/4" pieces of MDF screwed and glued together with paper and lathe. Then, TP, TF and MF with some sort of color combination that always varies. I enjoy the ease of using MDF instead of pouring 2" thick slabs of countertops. However, the cracking is becoming a problem. Any ideas to prevent this? Thanks! -Ryan
|
||||
|
|
||||
Liquid stone |
Re: Countertop Cracks | #1 | ||
|
Ummmm... Try pouring a 2" thick countertop. If that's not what you wanted to hear, enjoy those cracks.
Sorry, that was rude. Let's try again. Cracks and countertops go hand in hand if you do not have the proper mix design. The way you are currently doing it, although easier, still allows for a certain amount of flex. ie a fat brother-in-law sitting on the new counter, and ta da, you have hair line cracks, or worse. Try adding some CPR 1000 to our TP, MF, TF. it already has it in it, so DO NOT use very much. A little goes a really long way in helping the counters get really hard. I would suggest 1/2 qt per bag. Now this is not to be done on floors. Floors are a different animal and there is no need to reinvent the best wheel on the market. You can also try adding Polyprop. fibers to the TP. Again just a few, and then apply your TF and Micro coats over that. This will also help with the cracks. Finally, you better be pulling that micro thinner then a piece of paper. It's not meant to be build up at all and if you do... more cracks. Keep it thin. Like I said, IMO precast is the way to go. If you don't want to mess with all that, then you need to modify what you are doing. These are counters, not floors, and they require a different approach. Good luck bro |
||||
|
|
||||
engineeredoutdoors |
Re: Countertop Cracks | #2 | ||
|
You guys pouring the 2" w/ traditional concrete or a texture pave mix???
|
||||
|
|
||||
concrete dog |
Re: Countertop Cracks | #3 | ||
|
e o
that would be 2" concrete. I like to use 6000 psi mix for for standard tops. |
||||
|
|
||||
joeyvelderrain |
#4 | |||
|
I have been making 1&1/4" pre-cast tops and haven't had any problems with cracks.
I experimented with 1" thick slabs and began getting cracks now and then. IMO 2" is overkill. I should state that I use the white Buddy Rhodes mix. more expensive but worth it. |
||||
|
|
||||
DCS Inc |
#5 | |||
|
Ryan, forgo the lathe. Apply cpr 1000 on the screwed and glued mdf board. Apply base coat of tf right on top of the dried cpr. Then do your thing. The problem
your having is too much flex in the mdf and the thick cover of tp. It will give some but will create micro cracks if Wilma sits her fat azz on it. I've had
good luck with is approach... so far. The trick with this app is color. Veining, marbling, granite is what brings in the high dollar. I'll have another
advanced class here pretty soon showing this and some cool tricks with Reflector. Gotta get the Flower and Pato show behind me first. gene ec-Indy
|
||||
|
|
||||
awildturke |
#6 | |||
|
What are you sealing your tops with , i only use epoxy , you will get micro cracks , also when you go on wood floors it does it too a thick coat of epoxy will
keep it in check and just look like a stress crack and give character . I have yet to have one crack through epoxy . If you seal with CSS or other cracks will
straight through. Im going to do mine with Genes method . When i experiment i do it at my house .
|
||||
|
|
||||
brofun |
#7 | |||
|
I know I keep saying sparticall is best...not by experience..but by the information. It's four times stronger and scrtatch resistant and many times more
elastic! I would think that would be the way to go myself..maybe one coat of epoxy and then a thin coat of spartical..any experiences no this?
|
||||
|
|
||||
jayliber |
The better way | #8 | ||
|
I bought countertops here and they still are ok. No cracks.
Last Edited By: ECOV LLC 08/08/10 09:29 PM.
Edited 1 time.
|
||||
|
|
||||
DCS Inc |
#9 | |||
|
Thank you jayliber for that highly informative link. Lowes has a sale on their formica tops as well. ......sheeesh. gene
|
||||
|
|
||||
scratchcoat |
#10 | |||
|
I did my tops the way Gene says. All good. I had a joint in the mdf , it has a micro crack in the ol but did not come thru epoxy.
I applied spartic-all over top epoxy, all was good except one top. The spartic - all did not adhere. Still trying to figure what happened. I did aqll the tops same way at the same time. Hind sight was to use protectall but we didn't have it at the time. |
||||
|
|
||||
dekco |
#11 | |||
|
Gene hes got to be a counter top salesman!!!! LOL
|
||||
|
|
||||
DCS Inc |
#12 | |||
|
We are all salesmen in some fashion. Some speak from their heart, some speak from there pocket book. I can't pick up a bag of crap and convince someone this is the next best thing since peanut butter. I tend to show my feelings too much and people can pick up on that. |
||||
|
|
||||
Ryan M |
#13 | |||
|
We have been doing ctops over mdf for years without cracks. In areas were there is alot of moisture use med-ex it will only expand 4% with moisture compaired to mdf's 25%. We always biscuit join and use draw bolts at any seams, then do a 3/4" false edge. Red-guard also works good on seams to prevent cracking. Tf, tp stamp, then epoxy. Good luck.
|
||||
|
|
||||
allmistone |
#14 | |||
|
Crack is a big problem in coutertop, hope you have a good suggestion.
|
||||
|
|
||||