Top coat Failure? in INDUSTRIAL COATINGS FORUM Forum

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Top coat Failure?

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DennisD	Top coat Failure?		Lead	[-]
Posts: 727 12/31/11 10:52 PM	Tags : None On the bath countertop I finished shortly after Thanksgiving I have noticed what looks like a crinkle finish appear on the complete top. I used a base coat of vb-5 followed by a gunmetal reflector uv-1coat. Let dry and lightly sanded. Wiped off with denatured alcohol and a lint free cloth. Applied another uv-1 with gunmetal and light swirls of charcoal reflector. Let dry for 12 hours and then top coated with pt-1. It looks to me like the top coat of pt-1 has broken down. What was once smooth to the touch I can now feel small scratches and it looks like it is peeling. What if anything can I do now? All replies and help is appreciated as I have a kitchen counter top job to do in a couple of weeks and I sure as hell do not want to have problems with it. Thanks in advance! Dennis Deaver Central Iowa Elitecrete Systems Ph: 641-218-8220 www.centraliowaelitecrete.com Central Iowa Elite Crete Systems Knoxville, Iowa
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dekco		#1	[url]	[-]
Posts: 534 01/02/12 08:21 AM	Dennis, I can remember some post last year with PT1 not doing well on top of UV1.......Tom m was having some problems
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DennisD		#2	[url]	[-]
Posts: 731 01/03/12 02:48 PM	I saw and read that post as well Dirk. I have noticed that Tom and Bruce no longer post on this forum. The last time I visited with them via email they were both upset with the EC epoxies. My guess they have gone with a different epoxy supplier. I may as well email them to catch up and visit as well as find out if they are using a different one. Going to call my disributor and find out what to do. Thought maybe others had this problem and it would save me the phone call! Dennis Deaver Central Iowa Elitecrete Systems Ph: 641-218-8220 www.centraliowaelitecrete.com Central Iowa Elite Crete Systems Knoxville, Iowa Last Edited By: DennisD 01/04/12 09:00 PM. Edited 1 time.
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krh1965		#3	[url]	[-]
Posts: 98 01/04/12 09:40 PM	Dennis do you have any picts.. I saw it before it looked awesome... I just finished a piece of countertop I was going to throw out. I did the re in pt-1 then sanded it the next day and put a coat of polyaspartic over it. I was told you are not suppose to do that unless you have a medium on it, but I found out a lot of pros have been doing it for a while.. It's a test for me.. so just curious.. I will get some picts up when I get some.. Keith
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DennisD		#4	[url]	[-]
Posts: 736 01/06/12 08:49 AM	Here is the best I could do as far as a picture that shows what I am talking about, Sorry but the camera I have isn't the best. Dennis Deaver Central Iowa Elitecrete Systems Ph: 641-218-8220 www.centraliowaelitecrete.com Central Iowa Elite Crete Systems Knoxville, Iowa
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scratchcoat		#5	[url]	[-]
Posts: 505 01/06/12 01:55 PM	I did my counter tops two years ago. Overlay over wood, acid stained , one coat uv1, one coat RM. Two tops were good , one failed bad. All done at the same time. http://concretelocator.yuku.com/reply/32174/polyaspartic-over-epoxy#reply-32174 Last Edited By: scratchcoat 01/06/12 02:31 PM. Edited 1 time.
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krh1965		#6	[url]	[-]
Posts: 99 01/07/12 11:34 PM	Dennis it is hard to tell by the picture..I have same problem as to trying to get decent pictures.. Scratch that is strange about only that one top did that.. I haven't used EC's polyaspartic yet but with the others I have I only mix up enough that I can use in about 15 minutes.. Just wondering if the one that failed was the last one coated. topcoating with epoxies are a lot easier than polyaspartics.. They don't flow like epoxy.. you have to just quick lay it out and one time back roll and leave it. Here's a couple of pictures of a countertop I was talking about before. I finally took some pictures . Keith Hinzpeter S&J Overlays
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scratchcoat		#7	[url]	[-]
Posts: 506 01/08/12 08:00 AM	Kieth, you are correct about it being the last top coated. That is the only thing I can contribute it to. Although layed it all out quick. I had abraided my surfaces also. As far as putting it on and laying it off with a roller, forget about it. on a smooth surface it will never happen, you will have more bubbles than the Lawrance Welk show, I heard someone say they used a steel trowel with some good results, I used a squeege on a textured OL floor, worked out well Chris
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krh1965		#8	[url]	[-]
Posts: 101 01/08/12 10:55 AM	Chris... if you look at my last picture it has a polyaspartic over it. All I did is pour it on and used a roller to lay it down. I had no bubbles... It's not EC's poly though and I have never used it yet,, So don't know if that makes a difference.. I use to use a squeegee then backroll my polyaspartics on my flake floors but now I just mark of my SF and just use a plastic sprinkler can with the top cut off to pour out ribbons and use a 18" roller to roll it out . I never get bubbles.. The only way I have was when I have put it on to thick.. I never go less than 175 SF per gallon.. Polyaspartics are thin mil coatings.. If you want a thicker build you can put another coat on it. Just keep it in the recoat window or you will need to sand.. On smooth floor you can just use a padco applicator to lay it down... Not sure what mils you are applying but it maybe it is too thick... Just a thought... I am just trying to figure out why EC says you can't apply over smooth.. Maybe it is their formula... Keith Last Edited By: krh1965 01/08/12 10:58 AM. Edited 1 time.
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