INDUSTRIAL COATINGS FORUM

covering ceramic tiles

feeds@yuku.com (rocktune) — Thu, 19 Jan 2012 16:32:43 PST

wow, guys it's a long way down here , so here is the situation it's a huge supermarket for about 12000 m2 tiles floor well & fresh installed but for some reason ( ministry of health) i think ,they want to cover this ceramic tiles by any smooth finish like ( epoxy ) or whatever it is .
but here is the problem the supermarket is working and they don't want to close during doing this, so they want to evacuate 1000 m2 for only 24 hours and furnish it back after that , and so on .
what is the material that bonds well to ceramic tiles & cures in a less time ?
any help ?

Seamless Industrial Coating needs TRAFFIC YELLOW STRIPS safety markings

feeds@yuku.com (elitecreteghana) — Sat, 07 Jan 2012 15:31:04 PST

A pharmaceutical industrial floor has been coated with grey epoxy coatings. To control Forklifts operations on the floor, they want traffic markings( yellow in color) on the already coated floor. Can any ECer recommend what material( EC products or otherwise) to use? They are in dire need and waiting to get info before giving quote. Please help.

Top coat Failure?

feeds@yuku.com (DennisD) — Sat, 31 Dec 2011 22:52:42 PST

On the bath countertop I finished shortly after Thanksgiving I have noticed what looks like a crinkle finish appear on the complete top. I used a base coat of vb-5 followed by a gunmetal reflector uv-1coat. Let dry and lightly sanded. Wiped off with denatured alcohol and a lint free cloth. Applied another uv-1 with gunmetal and light swirls of charcoal reflector. Let dry for 12 hours and then top coated with pt-1.

It looks to me like the top coat of pt-1 has broken down. What was once smooth to the touch I can now feel small scratches and it looks like it is peeling. What if anything can I do now? All replies and help is appreciated as I have a kitchen counter top job to do in a couple of weeks and I sure as hell do not want to have problems with it.

Thanks in advance!

Chip Sample ?'s

feeds@yuku.com (DennisD) — Thu, 29 Dec 2011 21:33:02 PST

Finally received my Chip samples from Torginol and going to do a couple of sample boards. Wondering what works best for the base coat to put the chips into? Also what works the best as far as looks, partial or full broadcast?

Thanks in advance for any replies!

Urethanes

feeds@yuku.com (DennisD) — Fri, 16 Dec 2011 15:03:10 PST

I am looking for a urethane that I can use that does not have the orange peel finish that we get with AUS-V. I have a client that loves one of my reflector sample boards and would like it on her kitchen counter top but she does not like the same sample with the AUS-V on it. If you don't want to post it in this forum you can email me at :
dennis@centraliowaelitecrete.com

Thanks

Best Body Shop Floor Application?

feeds@yuku.com (DennisD) — Thu, 10 Nov 2011 17:44:54 PST

I am going to go look at and bid on a 3600 sq' Body Shop floor. Waiting to hear from my distributor on this but thought I would get other input. He described the floor as being cut in 10' x 10' squares. One side is 30' x 40' and the other is 40' x 60'. He doesn't want anything fancy, just something to enhance the appearance of his shop to customers. He wants light colors possible each 10' x 10' square alternating colors.

My thoughts are; prep the floors and do a vb-5 base coat. Followed by a uv-1 or pt-1 with charcoal reflector on some of the squares and a light gunmetal reflector on others to make it look like a checkered floor. Followed by 2 top coats of aus-v. I will leave it up to him on the anti slip or not.

If you have done an auto body shop or have any suggestions please feel free to chime in!

Thanks in advance.

Spartic and tile pattern question

feeds@yuku.com (floorcadet) — Sun, 30 Oct 2011 09:53:09 PST

I have installed a colored base coat with epoxy and I am going to tape 12x12 tile patterns on top of the epoxy after it dries then apply spartic over that. Any advice on when I should pull the tape up?

epoxy on 7 day old slab.

feeds@yuku.com (DCS Inc) — Sat, 20 Aug 2011 14:21:53 PST

I have a project I'm got roped into. Pour a slab and apply an epoxy chip floor on it in 7 days. I leaned on my concrete supplier and he came up with a mix design. 6 bag mix with a high range water reducer and 15% micro silica additive. Well I poured this "fun" little piece of concrete at a 4" slump and had 4 guys there to handle a 400 sq. ft. slab and it worked our butts off especially mine since I'm recovering from a major ham string(s) rupture. I installed a 15 mil vapor barrier under this slab and taped it closed real well.

This mix is very interesting. It is gaining popularity with the high performance concrete installation crowd. The mix is to have reduced dry shrinkage, a real low permeability with suppressed alkali and silica reactions. I applied my vapor emissions test kit today and will be doing a rapid RH test on it the first of the week. pH levels were at 9.5 today.

There have been epoxy applications applied on 9 days old slabs with success.........

Prep work epoxy

feeds@yuku.com (smithmxer) — Tue, 02 Aug 2011 12:05:25 PST

I am re-coating an existing epoxy floor with PT-4 of similar color. I have a large concrete grinding machine and all the tools. Can I use the 70 or 120 metal pads for prep or should I use a resin pad or just stick with 80 grit sandpaper? I went through Eletecrete class couple years ago but have not done any epoxy. I would appreciate any tips on the entire process.

Epoxy

feeds@yuku.com (Sheldon) — Mon, 25 Jul 2011 19:55:22 PST

New guy here, thanks in advance for the help this site is awesome. I'm a pool builder that is planning on making the transition into EleteCrete full time in the next year and am pretty excited. Have a question on an epoxy application though, and I'll be calling my distributor in the morning but thought I'd ask on here too and say hello.

Got a friend that is CEO of a plastics molding plant and he wants an epoxy covering on the floor of their shop area. Chem., impact, solvent resistant... The building is only 10 years old but I think I'm gonna use the vapor barrier regardless, but would E100-pt4 with a clear coat of PT1 be the go to product? It's about 460 sq ft. We just hit the epoxy briefly in training is there any tips or trade secrets I should keep in mind before I jump in so I don't grenade the job? The floor has already been shot blasted to remove some paint that they put down. Would I need to acid etch it...

epoxy over glavanized metal

feeds@yuku.com (CCW2) — Fri, 25 Mar 2011 11:07:53 PST

I have an interesting bid that I am in the middle of putting together. It is a water room that needs the floor removed and a new epoxy floor put down,. The room is full of equipment that cannot be moved or unplumbed. This floor gets a lot of water across it. They want me to put pitch pockets-( old roofing term-pitch= tar, found on flat roofs to separate the feet of air handlers and such from the roof, but in this case fill the pockets with epoxy) around the feet of the equipment to separate them from the rest of the floor. My question is will our epoxy stick to galvanized metal, or should I try and find a different material to make the pockets out of?

Application of AUS-V

feeds@yuku.com (DCS Inc) — Tue, 15 Mar 2011 17:31:47 PST

Here's my recommended procedure. First of all don't be cheap on the roller cover. 3/8" lint free. I like using an 18" roller because of a couple things. One, it's wider and quicker. Two, and the most important factor, it's equally weighted. Having connections on both ends allows for an equal weighted distribution. A 9" roller will always want to leave roller lines on the connected side. Not saying you can't do it, but it is easier with a roller connected on both ends.

Use a paint tray and don't dip your roller into a bucket. Pick up just enough material to wet your roller head and equal it out on the roller pan. Roll your product out in sections. You really want to stretch this product out being careful not to puddle and have equal distribution.

Roll it out in one direction and immediately cross roll it. This helps equal the total amount in this section. Once done, take a dry roller and roll it in the original direction. Here's the tough part. You don't want to...

AUS-V Recoating?

feeds@yuku.com (DennisD) — Fri, 11 Mar 2011 19:22:17 PST

I sealed a top with AUS-V but with the high humidity that had moved in I did not dare to put on a second coat. The 1st coat looks kinda like a light orange peel but not as bad as the Protect-all orange peel.

Questions are, does Aus-v have a slight orange peel texture or did I apply it to thin. I screened the table top and wiped with denatured alcohol, then let dry for a couple hours before I applied the Aus-v. I used a 1/4" nap mohair roller to apply it. Should I use a 3/8" nap roller instead?

Can I screen the Aus-v like I do epoxy and reapply, or is it not recommended?

Vapor barrier questions?

feeds@yuku.com (CCW2) — Fri, 11 Mar 2011 10:37:49 PST

I am looking/bidding at a job. They are spec'cing koester Vap 2000 for the vapor barrier. I know their vapor barriers are well known ( website says:

"can block moisture vapor emissions from coming through a concrete slab (on or below grade) from up to 25 lbs/1000 SF/24 hrs and can reduce levels to below 3 lbs/1000 SF/24 hrs "

Am I applying it to thin or to heavy? I want to use it on my Table top over the PT-1 clear coat I did yesterday around noon, but I may not because I do not want that orange peel look. Any help appreciated.

Thanks

E100-VB6- 100% Solids Epoxy Vapore Barrier Primer

feeds@yuku.com (sjburch16) — Thu, 24 Feb 2011 08:22:41 PST
My name is Sarah, and I work for Langan engineering in New Haven, CT. Can someone please let me know the pricing for this product? I need to know what volume the product is sold in, and the price per volume. Any other useful spec information would be helpful. Thanks!!

Is it Possible?

feeds@yuku.com (DennisD) — Sat, 19 Feb 2011 11:44:52 PST
Just thinking to myself and wondering if it would be possible to mix PT-1 & UV-100 mixes together to get a little lighter viscosity and therefore be a little more cost effective? Just wonder if anyone has tried it and I know that it is not Quote "a Company backed procedure".

Always tinkering..

PT-4 & Reflector

feeds@yuku.com (DennisD) — Sun, 13 Feb 2011 21:39:30 PST
Guys, I have a partial gallon of PT-4 light gray that I want to use up before it is to old. I have a couple of sample boards and thought about mixing in some Reflector to get a different color base coat. Has anyone tried RE in PT-4 and if so did it work ok?

Thanks as always!